Clay Stewart Collection of Türkmen Textiles

10 x 15 equals 150 asymmetrical kpsi, pulled open to the right, with a width/height ratio of 1:1.5.  Weft mostly invisible from the back has two un-dyed single wool weft shoots (Merv Teke feature, Moshkova).  These asymmetrical Persian knots are symmetrical and completely even when viewed from the back (Ahal Teke feature, Moshkova). Even warps are a Turkic weaving configuration, even with the asymmetrical knots.  A relationship exists between horizontal knot nodes (from the back) and the size or height of the proportionately taller, fuller gö:l, fuller gö:ls being an indication of age. Pile is cut medium high.  Wool is lustrous and glossy with some light abrash.   Very supple handle.  Straight combed ivory wool warps, each made by twisting two strings into an S-ply.  Possibly missing flat woven eight inch aprons on top and bottom ends, otherwise excellent condition, with one small stain.

Gush gö:l, (Ahal Teke Türkmen Main rug Major gö:ls) is the traditional emblem of the Teke Türkmen tribe displayed only on their Main rugs.  The minor gül here is called Gurbaga  (Türkmen word for “frog”).  This minor gül resembles a Greek cruciform in appearance with a star cross overlay.  gül means flower in Farsi and slave in Türkmen.  A major gush gö:l is an octagonal roundel (reference to the octagonal representation of a Pa-kwa, the Taoist yen yang symbol as the great Chinese circle of life with eight facets (or trigrams) representing the four elemental forces of nature (earth, heaven, fire, water), plus the next four (wind, thunder, lake, mountain) , and combining the eight elemental forces of nature and with the final two forces (being light and dark or yen and yang, male female, sun moon) complete an ancient Chinese Great Circle of Life.  Another interpretation is perhaps more interesting i.e., three archetypal acorn shoots (birds) in each quadrant of the octagonal roundel motif.  The word gö:l in Türkmen means “lake” referencing irrigation or agriculture.  Sometimes called the “bird” gö:l or gush gö:l referring to the symbols resembling “acorns” as birds also, both then becoming a double entendre symbol.In the field are four columns of ten major gush gö:l each and three columns of eight gurbaga minor güls each. 

 Top row only shows three full chemche güls and two half gül from each side protruding inwards, a variant of the gurbaga minor gul, each with white ram’s horns (gochanak motif) each on the four ends of their four stems.And in addition on the eighth row only, the gurbaga güls have a white gochanak motif.  All the Main gö:ls are cross linked in their center vertically and horizontally on both axis by a thin dark blue line (blue is the color reserved for Shaitan) creating a grid like effect (common on the larger Teke Türkmen Main rugs).  Half gurbaga minor güls protrude into the field on both sides around its whole perimeter.  The main border shows repeated amuletic archetypal symbols portraying the sun on its yearly journey around the tribe.  Repeated variations of the Shelpe Gocha octagonal motif (lit. jewelry pendant or talisman) and alternating compartmented enclosures, increasing the power of the amuletic designs inside.  Flanking both sides are guard borders displaying repeated and reciprocating gochanak designs. The major border is proportionately smaller rather than larger (Ahal feature, Moshkova).  These larger Turkmen rugs are repositories of the tribe’s heraldic traditional emblems unique to that tribe and identifying them to all others. 

Celebratory family meeting rugs reserved for formal occasions, visitors of rank, etc. reflecting the status, wealth and tribe of the owner, usually a chief.

Akhal Oasis, Goek Tepe, site of ancient fortress where the Ahal Teke camped in the second half of the 19th century, forty miles west of Ashkabad, in Turkmenia.  Home to the Ahal (white beard) Teke Türkmen nomads.

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