Clay Stewart Collection of Türkmen Textiles

5. Ahal Teke Türkmen Kalta

Ca. 1880. Size: 1 ft. 4 in. x 2. ft. 4 in.

Technical Description

All wool foundation using lustrous, sparkling sheep's wool. 10 x 20 = 200 asymetrical kpsi, pulled open to the right, with a width/height ratio of 1:2,  resulting in a medium handle.  Even warps when viewed from the back, two shoots of un-dyed wool weft are nearly invisible seen from the back. Nap runs from top to bottom.  For this piece’s time period it’s very rare to have the original backing intact.  Flat woven from  natural blonde yarn.   Supple handle.


 Women's personal articles, jewelry, bag for Koran, mirrors, combs, amulets, toprak bags, etc..


Nine aÿna gochak güls (mirrors with horns) inside squares, compartmented in center field with vertical ok gezi borders and horizontal tengejik (quincunx of five dot dice face) borders, all enclosed by an inwardly pointed gilin barmak meridian flanking the main border containing the khaikelbagi pattern (repeated British flags pattern refers to same design on amulet jewelry pouch carried or worn by women for protection).  One dark and then one light.  Flanked on each outer side by an outer minor guard border of an outward facing gilin barmak pattern followed by an single ala ja stripe. Finally, an apron of two rows of alternating (top and bottom) flowers (kelle motif) with single column on both sides and finally one top and bottom ala ja stripe. Remnants of original Turkish knotted long fringe protrude from the bottom front end.


Bleached white cotton woven into front field halfway down front right main border (sixth khaikelbagi down) and on left in smaller amounts on main and final outer border (possible weaver's mark?).


Ahal Oasis region, Southwestern Turkestan.

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