Clay Stewart Collection of Türkmen Textiles

7. Saryk Türkmen çüwal

Ca. 1870. Size: 5 ft. 4 in. x 3 ft. 4 in.

Technical Description

13 x 19 = 247 asymmetrical kpsi, showing a width/height ratio of 1:1.5, pulled open to the left. Firm handle.  Partially full güls. Fully depressed warps, when viewed from the back. All wool foundation. Pile knots include wool, bleached white cotton in naldag ornaments and cochineal dyed nomadic wild silk (slight corrosion from microscopic cochineal dye particulate matter from carapaces).  No backing (removed).  Most likely one of two that are usually woven.


Transport bag, apotropaic, tribe’s emblem for identification and recognition is displayed.


Six classic turreted Salyr (Mary) main çüwal güls (center is an äyna gochak pattern) in two rows of three each, outlined in blue with rose colored silk inside the major güls.  Six minor çüwal emblems with four gochak tipped points and four disappearing çüwal emblems in the cornices.  Central field is framed by three borders; a kyrk gochak main border (hooked cruciforms with X crosses called naldag) flanked by two tekbent stripes, then one gozenek minor border is followed by one tekbent stripe. Lower and upper apron has offset rows of small kelle motifs. Upper apron has single horizontal gochak border flanked by two gyak stripes.


Pende Oasis area, South Turkestan.

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