Clay Stewart Collection of Türkmen Textiles

6. Merv Teke Türkmen çuwal

Ca. 1885. Size: 5 ft. x 2 ft.10 in.

Technical Description
Structure:

14 x 26 = 364 asymmetrical kpsi, pulled open to the right, with a width/height ratio of 1:2, resulting in a  medium stiff handle.  Weft shoots are invisible from the back.  Warps very lightly depressed on the left when viewed from the back. Slight ribbing on right warp.  Bag face only,  backing removed.

Most likely one of a pair.  Salyr influence in the rigid weave and firm handle.

Use:

 Transport , cartage. Tribal identification.

Ornamentation:

Nine classic gochak turreted Mary or Salyr Shield güls are laid out in three rows of three each. Minor emblems show four full çuwal güls with four gochak tipped diamonds and the rest latch hooks and eight half-emblems with four recessed cornice emblems.  Center field perimeter lined with inward facing gilin barmak motif followed by seven borders. One, three and five are gochanak variants, two and three are ok gozi with naldag and gozi interspersed.  Five is flanked by gelin barmak.  Large outer perimeter border features yashil gochanak.  Upper apron showssichan izi pattern.  Medium blue surrounding all  main güls.  Kelle motif with ok gozi variant in repeated rows of flowers in lower apron.

Provenance:

Merv Oasis, Murgrah river valley, Southern Turkestan.  Close to Afghan border.

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